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The 1802 Wind Mitigation Form, Explained Line by Line

Every wind-mitigation discount in Florida flows through one document: the OIR-B1-1802 Uniform Mitigation Verification Inspection form. Insurers price your wind premium off what's checked on it — so understanding the form line-by-line is understanding your own money. Here's the whole document, decoded. (New to the topic? Start with the complete wind mitigation guide.)

Updated for the 2026 form. Florida revised the 1802 effective 1 April 2026 — inspections on or after that date must use OIR-B1-1802 (Rev. 04/26). The seven-section structure and the credits below are unchanged. What is new is covered in the section at the end of this page.

The basics: who, what, how long

The 1802 must be completed by an authorized professional — licensed home inspector, general contractor, building contractor, engineer or architect — typically for $75–$150, in under an hour. Once signed, it's valid for five years, and you submit it directly to your insurer (or agent) to trigger the statutory credits. Photos are mandatory throughout: every answer must be documented, which is why attic access and paperwork prep decide how smoothly your inspection goes.

Question 1 — Building code

The form first establishes your home's code era. Homes permitted under the 2001 Florida Building Code (effective March 2002) or later — or, in Miami-Dade/Broward, the 1994 South Florida Building Code — earn baseline credit automatically, because post-Andrew construction standards are the reason the modern code exists. Older homes aren't shut out; they simply earn their credits feature-by-feature through the questions below.

Questions 2–4 — The roof trilogy

Roof covering: when your roof was permitted and whether it meets FBC or Miami-Dade product approvals — a new-ish permitted roof is the entry ticket. Roof deck attachment: how the decking is fastened to the trusses; the inspector measures nail type and spacing from the attic, and the difference between 6d nails at wide spacing and 8d nails at 6-inch spacing is a real premium difference. Roof-to-wall attachment: the big one — toe nails score worst, then clips, then single wraps and double wraps, the hurricane straps that hold the roof to the walls. This line routinely produces the form's largest single swing after opening protection.

Question 5 — Roof geometry (the hip roof credit)

A hip roof — slopes on all sides, no flat gable ends — sheds wind dramatically better and earns a major credit. The technical test: the form asks whether non-hip features (gables, flat sections) total 10% or less of the roof perimeter. Homeowners with mostly-hip roofs and one decorative gable should pay close attention here — small architectural features can cost real money on this line.

Question 6 — Secondary water resistance

SWR is the sealed layer beneath the covering — a self-adhering membrane or sealed deck that keeps water out even if shingles strip away. It's the credit most often missed simply because it can't be verified without documentation from the roof job; if you're re-roofing anyway, adding SWR and keeping the paperwork is among the cheapest credits you'll ever buy.

Question 7 — Opening protection (the crown)

The form's final section scores protection on every exterior opening — windows, doors, garage doors, skylights — and it's consistently among the largest credits on the document. The classes that matter: Class A (large-missile impact rated) products — tested against the famous 9-pound 2x4 at ~34 mph — earn the top tier. And the rule that catches everyone: the credit is all-or-nothing. One unprotected opening — a forgotten side-garage window, an unrated skylight — and the entire category drops. Before your inspection, walk the house and count every opening; the discount guide covers the qualifying products, and the 2026 cost guide covers what closing the gaps runs.

What changed in the 2026 revision

The Office of Insurance Regulation revised the form effective 1 April 2026, following the 2024 ARA Residential Wind-Loss Mitigation Study. Every inspection dated on or after that day must be documented on OIR-B1-1802 (Rev. 04/26). Reports completed on the prior version before that date remain valid for their five-year term — you do not need a new inspection simply because the form changed.

New fields on the form. The revision adds design wind speed region, roof slope, and FORTIFIED designation. The wind speed region ties the property to the mapped design wind speed for its location. Roof slope is now recorded because slope affects uplift behaviour. And a FORTIFIED designation — the IBHS standard for roof and structural resilience — is captured directly rather than being described in the margins.

Performance-based roof-to-wall options. The old classification ladder — toe nails, clips, single wraps, double wraps — remains, but the revised form adds performance-based alternatives alongside it. This matters for homes using engineered connectors or systems that do not map neatly onto the traditional categories; previously those had to be forced into the closest box, sometimes to the homeowner's disadvantage.

Tighter documentation. The revision requires more photographs and more product documentation to support each answer. In practice this means the inspection takes longer, attic access matters more than ever, and having your permits and product approval numbers ready before the inspector arrives has moved from helpful to close to necessary.

What did not change. The credit logic underneath is the same. Hip roof geometry still turns on the 10 percent non-hip perimeter test. Opening protection is still all-or-nothing across every exterior opening. Secondary water resistance still needs documentation from the roof job. Roof deck attachment is still measured by nail type and spacing from the attic. If you have read the sections above, you understand the form.

If your existing report predates April 2026 and you are shopping carriers, ask your agent whether the receiving insurer will accept it or wants a current inspection — practice varies between carriers, and the answer is worth having before you pay for a second inspection you may not need.

Prep checklist: pass it well the first time

Gather permits for roof, window and door work; find product approval documents (NOA/FL numbers) for impact products; clear attic access; photograph nothing yourself — the inspector must — but know where everything is. If the form comes back weaker than expected, remember the My Safe Florida Home grants exist precisely to fund the fixes, $2-for-$1 up to $10,000 — and the strongest single upgrade on the whole form, dollar for dollar, is completing your opening protection.

Related Florida Impact Window Guides

How Long Does Impact Window Installation Take in Florida? → How Much Do Impact Windows Cost in Florida? 2026 Price Guide → How to Lower Florida Homeowners Insurance in 2026 → What Hurricane Ian Taught Lee County Homeowners → Hurricane Season 2026: Is Your Florida Home Ready? → Hurricane Season 2026 Complete Readiness Checklist →
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